Hello
i do a lot of online racing, and i have seen some people ask about telemetry information in this section. I have put together this post and it has the telemetry data for when i do testing for my car before the online league season starts. I have laps of Jerez, in a williams f1 car using rfactor. The system is as close to f1 as possible, no driver aids allowed, low tc and so on.
This first picture is the damper velocity over a lap.
This is basicaly how fast the suspension is moving. Basicaly the bigger the spikers the softer the suspesion. The big spikes are usualy the wheel hitting a kurb or something. From this i can see how stiff i need to have the dampers. There are 2 adjustments, 4 ranges in total. Rebound(fast and slow) and Bump(fast and slow) settings. Im not going to go into to much detail, but they basicaly control how fast the spring compresses and uncompresses. Slow bump and slow rebound control how the dampers work under slower loads, where fast bump and rebound is for fast loads (e.g kurbs)
The next two pictures are of the oil and water temp and gearbox rev range.
From these pictures, it allows me to see if the engine is running at its optimum temp which is around 106 or near abouts. if it runs cold i will lose performance, and if it runs hot it will not last a race distance. CHanging the air intake size will affect this, smaller will make it run hotter, bigger is cooler, On tracks with long straight you would use a smaller rad intake, as the straights cool down the engine. A track like monaco you would use a high one such as 5 or 6, monza would be 2 or 3. The small rad intake the less drag. The gearbox chart lets me see how much the engine is speending in high revs, usualy the engine would produce its peak torque at around 16000 rpm, we can see this as its where the organge starts to go up on the graph. So basicaly what we would like is out of every corner we need to have it selected so the revs are sitting at around 15500 to 16000 to get full torque out of a corner.
This next graph shows me the ride height of my car.
Ok, this graph is very important. it show the ride height of my car. Basicaly from this graph i can tune the spring stiffness, ride height, and set the packers. Basicaly from the graph we can see that the rear of the car is always above 0, which means it does not buttom out. The front on the other hand at high speed turns is scarping on the floor, from seeing this i am able to know that i should either raise the front of the car (while keeping a 2.5cm difference with the rear) e.g 3cm front 5.5 cm rear. Or, stiffen springs at the front. Luckly these days an f1 car has a 3rd spring, which affects the car ride height rather than hanling threw corners like the wheel springs do. So from stiffing the 3rd spring and adding some packers (spacers), i can stop the front from hitting the ground. This also affects the brakin as the nose of the car will always want to dive into the ground, so i would need to adjust the bias once this is done either forward or bake depening on my style. AT high speed turns i can see the difference in ride height between the left and right wheel, to much difference can cause excessive body roll, so i would need to stiffen the front anti roll or usualy the outside wheel spring to decrese this problem.
This next graph shows me suspsion position, ge force lat and corrnering speed.
Ok as with telemetry i am still learning every week, but i use this graph to see how the suspsion is moving for each wheel. If the values go below 0 they are running out of travel and the car is buttomg out. Stiffing springs and dampers will fix this. The corr speed seems how fast i am taking a corner, i use this to compare each laps with fresh data once i have made setup changes. The geforce basicaly allows me to see how much ge force turn on the track is causing to the car when its taken at a certern speed. I am still learning what values to look for with geforce values, its slowly making sense
This next graph shows the tyre temps
One of the most important. Having all the tyres running at optimum temp is critcal. Having them below, u will lose grip, and above you will lost grip. Having the front to cold you will have understeer, havng the rear to hot you will have over steer. Having to much camber will wear the tyres, general i try to have the inside of the tyre hottest say 106, then 103 in the middle then 101 on the outside of the tyres. its very hard to do this and takes a very long time to work on tyres. Having to much pressure and the car can lose grip. CHanging springs, suspesion etc also affect the tyre temp and wear. This window i generaly only look at once im happy with the suspsion balance. Then i use camber, pressrue and small damper or toe adjustments to correct the tyre temps.
This next graph shows my lap times over a 20 lap run, and also my electronic possible fastes lap.
From this i am able to see my lap times, how long it takes to go around a turn, sector times etc. It also then calculates possible fasest lap i can do if i did a perfect lap. in this case it says its possible to do a 1:13.**. My driving is not that good so for me it would not be possible, and given that tyre wear and fuel loads etc. But its a reference and shows that the setup is strong, just my driving needs to improve.
I hope this post gives a lot of people a small insight of what happends in real f1, its nothing close to the amount of data they study and do, but its all we have as we are not f1 drivers and techs.
Btw if anyone is knowledgable in telemetry analysis and would be interesting in helping me and my team mate with tuning our setups for this years season, i would realy like to hear from you so drop me a pm.
Thanks for reading, i hope you enjoyed it.
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